Longs Peak

 

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Date Climbed -- August 10, 2005

Roundtrip Mileage/Elevation Gain -- 15.0 miles/5,000 ft.

For lack of a better word, Longs Peak was my nemesis for a long time.  Despite being a strong hiker, I have never felt comfortable on trails with exposure to big drop-offs.  And Longs Peak fits that bill to a "T."

At the urging of my friend Marc, I made my first attempt of Longs Peak in 2003.  To say the least, it was unsuccessful for me (although Marc was able to make the summit successfully with my friend Jeremy).  I was able to make it to the Keyhole, but was really fighting some kind of stomach bug and really struggled just to make it that far.  But even without the physical ailment, I'm not sure that I was mentally ready to tackle what the trail held beyond the Keyhole. 

In 2004, Marc wanted to give the mountain another shot and I reluctantly gave in.  Unfortunately for both of us, the trail was icy beyond the Keyhole and a summit bid was not to be.  And frankly, I'm not sure that I was mentally ready for it anyway.

The following summer, Marc persuaded me to give the mountain one more shot.  Needless to say, I was reluctant.  I just did not have great confidence in my ability to deal with the exposure beyond the Keyhole.  However, there was something drawing me back -- maybe it was FINALLY my time to climb the mountain.  Maybe I was finally mentally ready to handle it.

Marc and Emily flew to Wichita, Kansas from their home in Rhode Island and then drove the rest of the way to Colorado with their daughter Maddie and Marc's parents.  They were staying in Estes Park for a few days, so I drove up the night before and stayed with them at their rental home.  Getting the 90-minute drive out of the way and getting some extra sleep on the morning on the climb was a huge help (although I still probably didn't get more than 2-3 hours of sleep before my 2:15 a.m. alarm).

After getting our gear together, we drove to the trailhead where Ian was waiting after driving up and sleeping at the trailhead.  Despite the early hour during the mid-week, the parking lot was filling up quickly.  We started hiking at about 3:15 a.m., just a few minutes after our planned start time of 3:00 a.m.  Obviously, getting one's body started at that time of the morning is difficult, but we made great time getting up to tree-line and winding our way up towards the Chasm Lake Junction.  The mental and physical fog of the early morning gives way to the euphoric feeling of endorphins as the sun starts coming up over the eastern plains.  After about 3 hours, we reached the Boulderfield, stopped to take a break, and got our first glance of the day at the Keyhole.  The alpenglow on the face of the peak is one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.  The beauty disguised  just how tough the climb was going to be beginning in just a few minutes.

After our short break in the Boulderfield, we geared back up and began the climb towards the Keyhole.  The climb to the Keyhole is far from demanding technically, but does take awhile.  I have always enjoying scrambling through the large boulders.  After a few minutes of climbing, Marc and Emily reached the Keyhole and Ian and I joined them a couple of minutes later.

I did not really wish to spend too much time in the Keyhole because I did not want to get freaked out by what was in front of me.  The difficulties begin here and climbers can see the part of the climb known as "The Ledges."  This is where the climb gets serious.  To the climber's left is the mountain; to the climber's right is a long drop down into Glacier Gorge.  Truthfully,

The sun rises over the Eastern Plains and begins to illuminate the Boulderfield.

Ian, Emily, and Marc take a rest break at the beginning of the Boulderfield.

The East Face of Longs Peak is illuminated by the rising sun.

Marc, Ian, and Emily work their way up to the Keyhole.

Ian takes a break before arriving at the Keyhole.

Marc and Emily rest in the Keyhole.

A gorgeous view of the morning fog over Glacier Gorge.

A look at the traverse from the Keyhole to the Trough.

Emily and Marc begin the traverse of the Ledges.

Another view of Glacier Gorge from the Ledges.

Looking straight down from the Ledges.

A look back toward the Keyhole (hidden from view) from the Ledges.

Ian and another climber continue on the traverse to the Trough.

Me ignoring the large drop down into Glacier Gorge.

The crux of the Ledges traverse -- note the rebar that has been placed to assist climbers.

A look up the Trough.

Marc eyes the beginning of the Trough.

Marc and Ian work their way up the Trough.

Ian and Emily take a break in the Trough.

A view from midway up the Trough.

The beginning of the Narrows.

Marc begins the traverse of the Narrows.

Me at the beginning of the Narrows.

Emily hands the summit register to Ian.

Emily and Marc pose on the summit.

Marc, Emily, and me on the summit.

Me and Ian on the summit.

A look back down the Homestretch.

Marc acts like he likes Emily on the summit of Longs Peak.

A look back from Chasm Junction toward the summit of Longs Peak with a storm rolling in.

 

 

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This site was last updated 02/03/08